I’m going to mostly copy and paste a Doc I was keeping for notes on this one here. This is of course a use at your own risk document. You will need a service manual for the vehicle and an engine rebuild guide as listed below, especially if you’ve never done this before. You should also have more than a few hours of repair work under your belt before attempting this.
Yes I know the F22B2 isn’t the most popular engine to rebuild, and if you’re spending the time rebuilding an engine to put back into a mid through late 90’s Accord you’d probably want at least the F22B1, but I wanted to rebuild the engine that got my ass around for so many years.
— Thanks to Eric the Car Guy, and many others, that helped me get to the point where I could attempt this engine rebuild. Especially Andrew (aka ManDrew) for his help, and many innovative solutions as we ran into stubborn bolts that even PB Blaster, praying to our god, and elbow grease could not best.
- — At certain points I used the official 1997 Honda Accord Service manual, and the B-Series Engine Rebuild Manual (ISBN-13 #978-1932494785) by Jason Siu. You will need both of these to follow this document. You should probably have a service manual for you car anyway and the B-Series book is fantastic, even if you are not rebuilding a B-Series Engine, or even a Honda Engine. It’s just a really well done book. I got my service manual used from http://www.books4cars.com/
Note: The perspective for engine removal is looking at the engine from the front. Pictures are being taken too.
— Drained Coolant, Removed Radiator
— 4 Fan connectors on the right side
— 1 Fan Connector on Left Side
— Drained Transmission Fluid
— Transmission Filter should be changed too. Lots of contaminants on the drain plug.
— Reinserted Trans. Plug for cleanliness needs new crush ring, and Torque
— Drained Oil, Drain Plug Needs New Crush Ring, and Torque
— Removed Battery Holder, and Brackets, for some odd reason the bolt in the upper left hand corner has an 11mm head while the rest are 12mm, the thread is the same on all.
— Disconnected Throttle and Cruise Control Cables
— Removed Air Duct up to Intake Manifold
— Disconnect Battery Cable from Fuse Box (lower in this picture)
— Disconnect Left Side Engine Electrical Connectors (Although Harnesses Are Keyed, I Still Wanted To Have Lots of Pictures of this.
— Disconnect Brake Booster and Related Vacuum Lines (3 Connections)
— 4 are listed, but as the picture shows the top connector is not present, and hasn’t been for as long as I’ve had the car. Perhaps a F22B1 thing.
— Disconnected Fuel Lines, Relieved Fuel Pressure (REMEMBER NEW WASHERS FOR FUEL FEED LINE)
— Disconnected Right Side Engine Wiring Connectors
— Disconnected Compressor bolts and disconnected electrical connector.
— Loosened under car heater hose.
— Disconnected Shift Cable
— Interior Shift Cable View (Obviously Remove the Armrest and Shift Cover First) There is a locking pin on the shift cable that I already removed before this picture.
— Under Car Transmission Cover for the other side of the Shift Cable. Follow the cable to a metal cover with 3 12mm botls on it (Not pictured here) This is what is inside.
— This actually started last night, but the passenger’s side spindle nut just won’t let loose. The driver’s side did using a combination of “Pa Buh” (aka PB Blaster), and a 700 lb. ½ drive impact wrench. Hence the name of the picture, Douche Bag Spindle nut. I’ve heard many call parts like this whores when working on cars, but that doesn’t make any sense to me, as whores are usually a good thing to have around. Whores give you what you want with little trouble and are usually happy about it too. This bolt is therefore not a whore, or the car a whore for being this way about this nut. It is currently a jerk, but again, not a whore.
— After soaking this all generously with Pa Buh, and waiting about 30 minutes…
— I tried and broke a ½ breaker bar with 36mm socket and a pipe. (broke the bar)
— Tried a ¾ drive breaker bar with ¾ 36mm socket, and did not break the bar, yet, but it did not come loose.
— Tried heating it with a heat gun for 30 minutes, and trying again. I don’t want to use an open flame on this one.
— Tried the ½ drive, 700 lb. impact wrench, many, many, times.
— Finally got the spindle nut off of the passenger side. I used a Dremmel with a small grinding bit to clean up around the edge of the bolt. This allowed more Pa Buh to get into the groove. I waited another 20 minutes. Put the car back on its wheel, to apply the car’s weight, and had someone push on the brakes. I then used my ¾ drive breaker bar and a 4 foor pipe and stood on it. Finally, it gave.
— Removed Ball Joints, and disconnected driveshafts, remember to disconnect them from the transmission as well before you lift the engine. Forgot driveshaft photos, but the service manual covers this well. Also, remember to tie up brake calipers with wire or zip ties to part of the frame.
DOUBLE CHECKS ALL CONNECTIONS ARE FREE.
— I started at step 1 in the engine removal procedure in the service manual and double checked everything. Here are a few things that I missed the first time.
— Passenger Side Electrical Connectors
— Lower Vacuum Hose by Fuel Line
— MAP Sensor Connector and Hose
— Fuel Return Hose (Technically I didn’t miss this the frist time, I just waited until I had better access to it).
— Transmission Sensor (VSS ?)
— Ground Cable
— Cable Tamer and Location (Battery Cable Bundle)
— Now the engine was ready to be lifted out of the car, but I was waiting for a spanning bar to arrive.
— Lifted the Engine out of the car and separated the transmission from it, then placed the engine on a stand. Mounting it on the stand required removing the ring wheel.
— Now the rebuild can finally begin.
NOTE: I took a lot less photos here since I used the B-Series Rebuild Book’s Engine Disassembly Chapter for Most of my Reference. There are some supplemental photos.
— Removed Exhaust Manifold Cover, Manifold, and Gasket
— Removed Intake Manifold, Manifold Gasket and Wire Harness
— There are a lot of pictures on this one as I needed to disconnect many wire clips and hoses to free the manifold.
— Sadly, Right after I snapped this picture, the wire attached to the temp. sensor ripped. It was old and brittle. Still, it needs to be repaired. Also, the sensor did not come out too well, so I’m going to replace it too.
— I repaired the wire that broke. Not a big deal. Some wire strippers, heat shrink material, and crimp connectors, and it feels good again.
— Getting the intake manifold gasket off was a total pain in the ass. I used many different sprays to try and get it off, and very carefully used a razor and some plastic tools. I am 100% sure that if I used a scraper the much softer aluminum would have been gouged. So I recommend against it. For my next project I’ll probably try out a nylon brush that 3M makes that mounts to a rotary tool or drill. Obviously, the softer nylon material is hard enough to take off the gasket, but probably will not damage the aluminum. I was not impressed with any of the chemicals, but eventually got it done.
— On the side, while waiting for sprays to “work” I did start cleaning and prepping the valve cover to be painted. Yes, I’m going with stereotypical red.
Sensors Front of Engine, Replace Hose Too, It’s Torn
Yeah, I don’t know why I numbered them either.
Man-Drew’s Stuck Crankshaft Bolt Solution, Yes It Broke the Jack, Yes It’s Dangerous.
Start of Putting New Parts In
— P. 6-49 HASM — M8 Bolts.